Friday, February 25, 2011

Up up and away

In tropical SE Asia May signals the approaching rains which are eagerly awaited by rice farmers and those wishing a break from the dry heat of March and April. To help encourage the coming of the rains villagers in rural Thailand and Laos stage festivals that have evolved from pre-Buddhist fertility rites. Known as Prapheni Bun Bang Fai in Thai or Bun Bang Fai in Lao or for English speakers a Rocket Festival. Usually stretching over two or three days these festivals are replete with music, dance, parades with floats and of course the firing of home made rockets.

Harking back to its fertility rite origins the festival parade ornaments and floats often are adorned with phallic symbols and imagery. The raucous activity also includes cross-dressing by both sexes and different ages all oiled by ample quantities of alcohol which results in lots of bawdy humor.




The large wonderfully decorated floats known as Bangfai Ko will be judged and awarded prizes. Accompanying dancers and musicians may also compete for prizes. Often wealthy sponsors will provide support both as a way of enhancing community prestige and as a method of attracting and redistributing wealth. Each float will usually be carrying a young couple known as Nang Ai Kham, queen of the pageant and her male champion Phadaeng the story behind which involves a legend well known to most Thais.
Typical Bangfai Ko

Nang Ai Kham entrant in parade

Each village has a dance group

What a well dressed Khene player wears!

From young to old everyone enjoys watching or participating

Interest and activity peaks on the final day of the festival with the firing of home made rockets which can vary
in size from relatively small ones (Bang Fai Noi) to the largest which pack 120 kg. of home brewed black powder Bang Fai Lan). These latter rockets are 9 meters long and both expensive and dangerous.The rockets themselves are made of bamboo bongs with more modern versions being enclosed in pvc pipes. Needless to say black powder and nozzle designs etc. can be a closely guarded secret in the competitive world of rural rocketry.The larger rockets can reach altitudes measured in kilometers and travel downrange up to several dozen kilometers. Rockets compete in each size class and are judged according to apparent height, distance and the beauty of their smoke trail.


Rockets vary from small to those requiring winches to prepare for launching

Passing on the knowledge

Raising a large rocket for firing

Ignition
Up up and away

There are spectacular failures

Villagers firing duds are often consigned to a mud wallow
                                                           
The largest and perhaps best known rocket festival is the annual three day event held in Yasothon in Northeastern Thailand (Esarn). However, rocket festivals of varying size are held all over Esarn and also in Northern Thailand. Lanna Thai Villa is located in Thoeng District, Chiang Rai Province and in the 1950's
several villages of Esarn migrants were established in the District and hence each Spring various of the villages combine to stage rocket festivals impressive for their size and overall good fun. We at the Villa look forward to guiding guests who come in May to observe and participate in this most fun and interesting cultural event.
Pictures appended to this post were all taken at festivals located no more than 10 km. from Lanna Thai Villa.

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